Sewing machine



A. R.' SCHCENKY SEWING MACHINE Aug. M, 1923. M6463@ Filed July 28 .1919 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Aug. M, 11923. 11,464.63@

A. R. SCHOENKY SEWING MACHINE Filed July 28 1919 2 SheefLS-Shee 2 7265 ITE/#Zi 5.

Patented Aug. ld, 1923.

. narran; stares y intatte earner ersten.

aueus'r a. scnonnnr, or sonnnvrnnn, MASSACHUSETTS, assrenon 'ro nance snor lancement contratar, or aos'ronrrassacnusnrrs, n coaroaarron or rar-ama.

` of the looper which vdii snwrire macerata.

application nea any as, me. eeen no. marea.

To all wwmt may concern:

Be it known that T, Anouar R. SononNKn a citizen of the United States, residing at Somerville, in the county of Middlesex and State ofMassachusetts, have invented a new and useful Sewing Machine, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawing.

This invention is a novel sewing machine, more especially a shoe sewing machlne of the class known as a welt-and-turn machine,

is whichv the shoe insole is stitched to they shoe upper and, preferably, also to the welt strip. The principal object of the present invention is to improve the operation of such a machine and more especially as to the manner and means pf feedin guiding and'applying the welt to be stltched to the shoe. Other objects and advantages of the resent machine will be explained hereina er or will be apparent to thosey skilled in the art. To the attainment of such objects and advantages the present'invention consists in the novel machine, mechanisms, combinations, arrangements and devices shown, described and claimed.

Tn the accompanying drawings forming a part hereof, Figure 1 is a left elevation of the pertinent parts of a shoe welt stitching machine embodying the present invention. l

Figure 2 is a diagram showing the relation of the shoe, the welt. strip' and the welt guide, which is also a welt feeding means but is for convenience-termed a welt guide. Figure 3,- in left elevation, shows a detail places the thread on the hooked needle.. i w

Figure t is a rightelevation of the lparts seen iii-Fig. 1, or rather those which appear l from the opposite side ofl the-frame wall.

Figure 5 isa left elevationouan enlarged scale, of certain parts seen in Fig. 1,.. Figure 6 is a section takenou the plane 6--6 of Fig. 5. y

` Figure 7 is a similar section taken on the plane 7 7 of Fig. 5.

Figure 8 1s a section taken on the plane 8-8 of Fig. 5.

titi

Prior welt stitching machines are shown in Zaleski and Schoenky Patent No. 1,288.- 366, patented'December 17, 1908, and Patent No., 1,361,952, patented December 14, 1920,

which may be referred to for many general features and matters of construction and deof the shaft.

tail not forming part of the present inven# tion nor illustrated herein.

As in the prior machines referred to, the

lpresent machine ,may comprise the usual stitchinginstruments including the work rest or bumper A against which the shoe is held during stitching, the channel guide B which engages the preformed channel in the insole, the oscillating, curved, hooked needle C, the thread looper D, the thread hook or finger E, the feed devlce-G, andthe welt guide or feed device H. The member H may also be termed a back gage as it is used in making turn' shoes inwhich there is no welt.- llt is'mounted at the forward end of a sliding shank to be hereinafter referred to, and the other instruments are suitably mounted for their proper movements and actuated in harmony.

The most of the parts `herein shown arel mounted on a frame part or upright wall 10. This is the left hand one of the two spaced apart walls sho-wn in theprior machines. The parts to the left of the wall, namely, the parts seen in Fig. 1, may be termed outside parts for convenience, and

lsimilarly those to the right of the wall or between the walls, shown in Fig. 4:, may be called inside parts. The main or operating shaft 11 utilizes the frame wa-ll 10 as one of its bearings. This may be provided with cranks rather than cams for operating the greater partof the stitching instruments, as in said prior machine. Thus, an outside or left hand crank 12 is shown which actuates the connections shown in Fig. 4. The usual hand wheel 1t may be provided" at one end The crank drivenconnections for operatlng the sewing instruments may be of various forms and arrangement. For example, the inside crank 13 is shown as provided wlth a pitman 15. As the crank rotates, the pltman is controlled inits movements by te l swinging arm 16 pivoted forward of the 100 shaft. The extremity of the pitman is connected by a link 17 to the big lever 18 fulcrumed at its rear end, and at its front endconnected by curvedlink 19 with the needle block carrying the needle C. Thus, the 305 needle is caused to oscillate, and when moving forwardly it passes through the welt, upper and insole lip, where it receives thread from the looper D and retracts to form the stitches in the usual manner.

rivht end of which has a bevel gear meshingl I with a bevel gearl 27 "at the top end of the looper D. Thev looper rotates on its longi- "tudinal axis for something-over one revolution and then reversesflt. thusv applies a loop to the hook of the needle on each for- 3 and 4. The lower end or exit of this tube is the part thatl applies this loop to they leo - gage and actuate a sliding pin 47 which,l when thrust forwardly, unlocks and releases ward stroke ofthe latter. lllt will .be understood that the thread from the supply passes down through the hollow interior of -theil looper. I have shown extending through .the lo'oper an inclined thread tube 30, see Figs.

needle. I believe it 'new to afford a relative adjustment. dering the thread tube 30 longitudinally, adjustably shift-able. The upper portion 31 of the tube-is threaded and provided with a hexagonal head 32. By this means, the head may be turned and causes the tube to aseend or descend for such adjustment as des sired. A `lock nut 3 3 secures adjustment.

looper by holding thethread which the looper applies to the needle. may be actuated by means of-a link 35 extending from thel lever 22, before mentioned,

to an arm 36 mounted on a short horizontalshaft 37 to which the finger E is secured.

The shoe rest or bumper A has a shank a which is guided at the inside of the frame wall, as shown in Fig. 4, by means of guides 39 and 40. A spring 41 tends to pull the bumper forward but permits it to ield at certain times, for example, during t e feeding of the work, to adapt itself to the position of the work. To lock forward the bumper at certain times, for example, during the retraction of the needle,the following may be employed. I show a depending arm 43 which swings with the before-mentioned lever 18. A link 44 extends downward from the arm to a bell crank lever` 45. This has a laterally extending pin 46 adapted to enthe bumper. When the needle is in the work and the pins 46 and 47 stand rearwardly, the bumper is locked against rearward yieldinglby means of la balll or rolling element 48 normally pressed rearwardly by a springpressed rod 49 so as to engage and wedge etween the upper surface of the bumper and the inclined surface', of a cam or wedge 50. The bumper is held by the wedging of the ball ,except when the releasing pins thrust the ball forward, as described. The

This l herein secure by ren- The thread finger E lco-operates with the The fingerrolling element 48-is preferably a hardened sphere, of the type used in ball bearings.

Coming now to the welt guide H, mount- I ed on its sliding shank h, the latter slides forwardly and rearwardly in a slideway or l recess cut into the inner side 'of the frame wall 10, as seen in Figs. 4 and 6. The plate 4. i The shank la. is constantly pulled forward by a spring 55. This being yielding, permits the welt guide toadapt itself to the `position of lthe shoe when inserting the work and at a certain time during each stitch cycle. To` limit the forwardmovement and take impact, a rubber pad 56 is provided behind the retaining plate 54. A bolt 57 is threaded in a boss 58 on the shank h and this, when it comes forward, strikes the vrubber pad. It is adjustable, and the lock nut 59 fixes the adjustment so as to determine the maximum forward position of the welt guide.

Referring to the diagram, Figure 2, it will be understood that as the shoe is fed it is guided from the channel w in the insole. The last or upper y extends outwardly beyond the insole to varying extents. The welt strip fw passes from the supply through the welt guide H and thence to the point where the needle C lapplies the stitches Athrough the welt, the upper and the insole 11p. It is customary tol feed or draw welt Thus, the finger.l is vibrated in each cycle.

from the supply while the workis stationary and the stitch is being formed, so that the subsequent feed or advance of the work will predetermined position. During this movement the welt runs through the guide.- Subsequently when the guide comes forward vto the work it furnishes slack welt, which is taken up by the feed of the work, and it lays the4 welt against the shoe in a proper position to receive vthe stitch. u This plan is defective, and an object of the present invention is to overcome the defect. As before stated, the last or upper extends beyond the insole in varying amounts as the diagram shows. .The welt guide H, when it comes forward, contacts and rests against the upper or last. They form its stop. `It will be clear that when the upper projects'far beyond the insole, the retracting movement of the welt guide will be less than when the upper extends only slightly. In other words, the action of the welt guide and the resulting feed of the welt are variable. They vshould be constant, for during the production of uniform stitches the welt feed shouldbe uniform stitch after stitch.v

neeaeao The present invention accomplishes this purpose by lproviding a weltguide which retracts, in every stroke, a xed predetermined.

. forward "position determined by the extension of the shoe upper.

Various mechanlsms mlght be used to carry out this invention, but l prefer to employ a retracting member or carriage which in each cycle retracts a xed amount, and which, prior to each retraction, engages or grips the shank of the welt guide so that, wherever the latter may happen to stand, it will in each cycle be drawn backwardly the same distance, thus drawing o and feeding thesame amount of welt strip for each stitch.

For a welt guide retracting means, ll have provided a sliding carriage or retractor 60 which slides, forwardly and rearwardly at the same incline as the welt guide shank, within a recess or gs ning 73 cut clear through the frame wa 10. Figs. v1 and d show the carriage in place, and Figs. 5 to 8 show the details. 'lhe carriage is preerably built-up, and has an upper side block 62 and a lower side block 63 rigidly attached to the body portion ot the carriage. llhe carriage 60 is retained. in the wall recess by retaining plates 70, at the lett and 71,71 at the right side ofl the wall. p As seen in Figs. 1, d and 5, the shank il. passes directly through a groove. or slideway 61 cut in the carriage. At times the shank slides loosely so that its spring 55 may pull it forward to the work, and at other times is locked so as to retract with the carriage, and at still other times is locked against rearward movement, for example, to hold the guide firmly up to the work during the retraction of the needle.

li will rst describe the connections for reciprocating the welt `guide retractor or carriage 60, and afterwardsv the ldiderent locking and unlocking means by which the welt guideis rendered free,'or is held forwardly, o r is drawn rearwardly, in the manner mentioned.

llt h as already beendescribed how the out-- link 67 connects the lever with a guiding link 68, and a third link 69 extends from their pivot directly to the carriage 60. `Asthe crank travels round and round, the rock lever swings upwardly and downwardly. llt is almost at the top of vits stroke in F ig. 1. f When it swings downwardly it straightens out the links 68, 69 and throws the carriage forward, to be later drawn rearward on'the lifting of the 'rock lever.- lt is unnecessary to describe in de'- tail the exact timing and the successivezpositions of these parts. However, it .may be 'mentioned that links 68, 69 will straighten out and pass slightly therebeyond. Due to this and other factors, the carriage 60 pauses for a substantial traction of a cycle when in its most forward position. llt recedes subsequently at the time that the welt guide should recedein the ycyclehol operations. 'llhe plan of the present invention is to utilize the substantially stationary forward position of thecarriage for locmn ,the welt guide forward, andsubsequent y to utilize the re traction ot the carriage to pull the guide rearwardly. Y Y

.'llo lock forwardly the welt guide shank 7a in the carriage 60, jll have shown a '..a A device including a ball 75, see Figs. 5, 7 and 8.y This is longitudinally movable .in a-recess in the carriage just above the shank h. 'llhe carriage vor rather the-upper side block 62 is formed with a cam or wedge-surface 76, and the ball is adapted to wedge between this and the upper sident the shank to lock the latter against rearward movement. A..

spring-pressed rod v.77 tends to hold the ball in locking or operative position. When so held the shank may reel ride forward but would be wedged and heldl against the slightest rearward sliding. At certain times the shank must be released for sliding rearward, and this may be effected by an unlocking rod 78. rThis small rod slides inthe block- 62 and is adapted to push forwardly the ball 75, out of locking position. The rod has an od-set or pin 79 connecting it with a slide i8() litted at the left tace of the carriage and through which the lockingl and unlockingfrom the link, as seen in Figs. 1 and 8. rlhis rocking extension will move 'forwardlyand rearwardly on the carriage, and is arranged to strike in its forward movements a pin 82 on the slide 80, while on its rearward movements its beveled or wedge surface 83 engages a corresponding wedge surface 84 under; the head 85 of a pin 86 movable in the slide 80. The pointed end 87 of the pin 86 engages a recess 88 inthe rod 78. A- spring device 89 holds the pin 86 in the position shown. The operation of these parts is substantially as follows. When the parts are moved to the position shown in Fig..1,with the carriage rearward -and the rocking extension 81 forward', this has moved forward the slide and withit the rod 78, thus dis-'1 placing the ball 75 and leavingythe welt guide free to adjust itself to the work. At a later point, when the carrlage is forward the extension 81 will have swung relatively rearward on the carriage, thus extracting the in 86 and thrusting relatively rearward) the slide 80 and rod 78, permitting the ball 75 to assume locking position beneath the wedge surface 7.6. At this time the welt guide is locked firml forward to the work.

ln the position sliown, the machine is ready to receive new work. The operator places the shoe in position. The bumper A and the welt guide H may both be forced yieldingly back as the work is placed. After the machine is started, the described connections permit the locking ball 75 to lock the welt guide forward, as described. During-this period the needle retracts. Before the subsequent displacement of the ball to unlock the welt guide, the second set of locking devices, namely at the lower side of the carriage, are rendered effective to lock the .welt guide shank to the carriage so that it iscompelled to move rearwardly with the y the shank and thereby enable the carriage next rearward stroke of the carriage. After such rearward stroke is commenced, the upper locking device is unlocked but not until the needle has been completely withdrawn from the work. Subsequently, after the carriage and welt guide have retracted a predetermined distance necessar for exactly uniform feeding of the welt, t e lower locking device opens and releases the shank, which thereupon moves forwardly to the work under the influence of its spring 55. This forward welt guide movement lays the fed strip against the shoe. The feed of the work will then have taken place. The parts are now in position for the next advancing stroke of the needle, which penetrates the welt, upper and lip. Before the needle commences its retraction, tending to displace the work, the bumper and welt guide are again locked forwardly to lirml in place. This completes t e cycle so far as concern-s the present invention.

The lower shank locking devices or those by which the retractor or carriage grips and draws rearwardly the shank and welt guide may" be as follows. A locking ball 95 is shown lying above 'a vvwedgesurface 96 on the carrlage lower side,` block-.63. It is between this inclined surface and the Vshank h. A spring-pressed rod 97 tends-to wedge the ball into contact with the .wedge and shank.v

This would prevent forw'ard'lmo'vement of to pull it rearward. The unlocking rod 98 is adaptedto displace the ball. The rod is operated by a pin 99 on a slide 100 mounted at the face of the carriage. A pin 101 outstanding from the slide is engaged by the downward, arm 102 of, a bell crank lever the forward arm of which is provided with a stud or roller adapted to pass along the hold the work groove orrcam slot in a plate. 105 fixed to the machine frame. This cam plate is slidably'adjustable to vary the timing or extent of welt guide retraction. Thus the upper side of the plate engages a guide 106, and the lower side is mided by a threaded bolt 107 passing loosely through a vlug 108 on theframe and held vagainst sliding therein by a cap piece 109. When the bolt is turned, the cam plate is set toward or from the carriage.

The cam plate has an incline followed by a dwell. yThe incline serves to throw the bell crank lever 102--103 when the carriage is moved forwardly or rearwardly. As the carriage moves rearwardly the cam stud104 is thrown down in the camgroove. `r`This swings the bell crank and throws the slide 100 relatively to the left, thereby displacing the ball and unlocking the shank k. This terminates its rearward movement and the drawing off of welt strip. When the carriage moves forwardly, the stud 104 swings up through the inclined cam slot into the dwell and forward to its normal position. This movement is without effect, as the gripping or locking effect of the ball 95 is only 1n the one direction. Obviously, every time the carriage 'retracts, this being for a predetermined distance, as explained, the welt guide shank is at once gripped and drawn rearwardly until thel unlocking point is` reached, always at the same point in the v tions in its initial or forward position.

In a sense it will be observed that the movc in carriage 60 is an actuator for causing we t guide movements. The sliding carriage is only one form which such actuator might take. It might be a rotary or otherwise movable device, but it is preferably movable in a regular manner. goes through its movements regularly, and 1t stands ready to do itswork of retracting the welt guide by a fixed, uniform, or predetermined amount or distance. The bali 95, and accompanying parts, is in effect a gripper or coupler for coupling the welt guide vor its shank .to the regularly moving actuator or carriage. When the time comes for the welt guide to retract and measure olf welt strip, the shank, being coupled to the actuator, moves with it and is thus drawn rearwardly. Its uniform withdrawal is determined in a suitable manner, either by the extent of movement of the actuator,

objects and advantages of the present inven- This moving actuator 100 amount of retraction, irrespective of varial ine/acer,

tion. Since man. matters of combination, arrangement, design, construction, and detail, may be variously modified without departing from the novel principles involved, no limitation to such matters is intended eX- cept so far as set forth in the appended claims.

What is claimed is:

1. In a welt and turn or analogous sewing machine the combination with the hooked needle, looper andcooperating instruments, of a yielding work rest, a clutch for locking the same forward to the work, a needle actuating lever 18, means for vibrating said lever, and connections 44, 45 from said lever for opening said clutch.

2. Sewing machine as in claim 1 and` wherein the lever vibrating means comprises a rotating crank 13, pitman 15 thereon and link 17.

3. In a welt and turn or analogous sewing machine the combination with the hooked needle, looper and cooperating instruments, of an upright frame wall having an opening therethrough, a back gage having its shank slidingly mounted on one side of said wall and extending across said opening, an operating crank shaft passing through said wall, a crank on said shaft at each side of said wall, connections from the crank at the back gage shank side of the wall for actuating the needle, and connections from the other crank for actuating or controlling the shank.

4. In a welt and turn or analogous sewing machine the combination with the hooked needle, looper and cooperating instruments, of an upright side frame wall 10, a crank shaft having a crank at one side and another crank at the other side of the wall, a work rest with sliding shank a. and back gage with sliding shank hi, both at the same side of the wall, and connections from said respective cranks for controlling said respective Shanks.

5. Sewing machine as in claim 4 and wherein the two shanks are .mounted atl the inside of the wall, the work rest shank having a clutch, connections from the inside crank for controlling the clutch, the back gage shank having a clutch, and connections from the outside crank for controlling the back gage clutch and for bodily retracting the back gage shank.

6. In a welt and turn or analagous sewing machine the combination with the hooked needle, looper and cooperating instruments, of a back gage H, having shank it, a retractor for said shank, adapted to engage and retract it at certain times, and means for reciprocating the retractor, comprising an operating crank12, pitman 21 thereon, a connection from said pitman to a rear-pivoted lever 65, and a connection from said lever to the retractor.

7. Sewing machine as in claim 6 vand wherein the connections from lever to the retractor comprise toggle links arranged to give the retractor a pause in its forward position.

8, In a welt and turn ci' analogous sewing machine the combination with the hooked needle, looper and cooperating instruments, of a back gage II, having shank h', a retractor for said shank, adapted to engage and retract it at certain times, and means for reciprocating the retractor, comprising toggle links 68, 69, and connections for actuating the same to give the retractor a substantial pause in forward position.

9. Sewing machine as in claim 8 and wherein the retractor isl a sliding carriage bearing a clutch engageable with the back gage shank.

10. In a welt and turn or analogous sewing machine the combination w'h the hooked needle, looper and cooperating instruments, of a back gage H, its shank h, a retractor carriage, said shank and carriage slidable along the same line, a clutch between said carriage and shank whereby the retraction of the carriage retractsthe shank, and means for reciprocating said carriage in a manner to give a substantial pause in forward position, comprising toggle links 68, 69, and connections for aligning the links to move the carriage forward and for moving them slightly beyond alignment to give a pause.

' 11, Sewing machine as in claim 10 and 1.06

In testimony whereof, I have aixed my 105 signature hereto.

AUGUST R. sononNKY. 

